THERE are a thousand ways to cook fish. But however you cook it, herbs and seasoning can better improve the flavor.

Fish is a versatile dish that gives you the protein you need without additional saturated fats in meat. Try these techniques:

* Herbs and spices. Various herbs and spices can be used as salt substitutes. Try to be a little adventurous with dill, which can really liven tuna. Marjoram, mustard and allspice may also be used, or you can try world or regional variances with smoky cumin or spicy ginger. Dried paprika or fresh thyme, cilantro and rosemary also provide a bit of color along with the flavor.

* Citrus. Another way to season fish is by using the bright, complementary flavor of citrus. Lemon juice or kalamansi is a perfect partner especially when fish is baked or grilled. You can even work with juice concentrate, such as orange juice. Grapefruit and fresh tangerines may also be used and work especially well with stronger tasting fish such as tuna.

* Beer and wine.  Most of the time, beer or wine is mixed in meat. But in fish, it can give a trick to lessen oil. Pour some cold beer into your batter before you deep-fry your fish. This not only adds the flavor of the beer, it keeps the batter cold so the fish will not absorb too much oil during the frying process. Beer also adds a rich color when used as a basting agent for baked fish. Wine adds an elegant touch to baked fish and can be used in conjunction with citrus, like lemon, and spices, such as dill or pepper.